Secondhand Surfer

Surf~photography~journal

R. J. Rio de Janeiro

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the Road – R.J.

Is a specialty company, selling crocheted tops, such as the one, modeled here.

When I go for a walk on the beach, I never know what, or who, I’m going to encounter. Leaving the shipwreck, I met three girls; two models, one a photographer, all three surfers. They are traveling and supporting themselves, via the internet. We have come into an altered world.

We are living in a time of warped speed. She asked me if I had instagram. I replied no, “I’m primitive.” I showed her my dumb phone, that I purchased last week. I never have it when I need it. And it rings, when I’m driving. But I bought it, because it’s suppose to save my life, at some point.

I became mindful of how much goes on, in a place, that looks like time has stood still.

And in writing this, I’m reminded of all the shells that, I know, were walking down the beach, at the time I took this photo.

Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down.

Who sets the pace?

Lucky – Unlucky

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALast Friday, I went to catch my waves, and was surprised, by this sight. The sailor is a New Zeleander, who had the fortune / misfortune,to beach on scenic, Playa Avellanas. Also, his sloop is in a river mouth, sitting in sand, perched between two reefs. I have been going down and following the process of those working, to solve his dilemma. He never seems stressed, and he’s never shown one sign of anger. ┬áHe is diligent in the recovery.

I know we’re all rooting for him.

And help will come.

We never know. Sometimes, the most disastrous events in our lives, turn out to be our blessings.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I ask all who read this to send Craig, the Kiwi, your prayers and positive intent.

Day Six

 

Family Poem

Nicotine/Jelly Bean~Methadone and Beer

Lying eyes/Sullen mouth

A life that’s full of FEAR

Fresh air and Sunshine

Sparkling Eyes and Smiles

Filled with Grace and Spirit Lead

Who will guide us Through our Trials

The family that prayers together~stays together.

The family that drinks together~stinks together.

*yes, you may quote me on that

What’s Next?

DSCN0753My interpersonal relationships play themselves out, in repeated fashion.

Therefore, I ask, “What’s the big deal?”

Define family:

For me, an ill-defined problem – Read more…

Cumpleano ~

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Quote This

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Yes, I made this entire wave.

Don’t misconstrue my thought here, but those who I consider to be the best surfers on the island are charging dry barrels up the beach.

This shot was taken at the Fernandina Beach Pier, which is my favorite wave back home.

I sent this photo, along with a Bio to a Florida Women of the Waves Event


My Bio – Cheri Eagerton Royal

Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new. (You can quote me on this.) Read more…

Shell Shocked

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Tree Talk

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Pig Speak

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Today’s Work

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is my pic of the day – photoshopped.

I made numerous alterations to achieve this image.

The waves were nice and once again – I had no ride to the beach, but no worries. I took my fins and Olympus and swam out in the break to get photos. It was my first day out with fins. I got slammed. But it was so much fun.

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