Secondhand Surfer

Surf~photography~journal

Survivor

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85 Degrees and Holding

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADon’t want no cold on me! Give me friends, a board and waves.

Pura Vida

 

Who’s in Charge

IMG_0223MMMMLean on God ~ People will let you down ~ but GOD ~ never will.

God is not limited to the facts.

O-So Robbed

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYou thought that spirituality was the answer. You pursued. The banker buzzed by in a blur. You felt the dust cake your skin-as as you grew light inside. Friends were friends, but the needy were God.

O-So Robbed. A bathing suit hanging in the dark was too much for a man with lustful thoughts. Gone running down the beach, to be strolled and toiled, in the sun, by a chestnut Lolita . O-So Robbed. A bobbed wire fence ~ an invisible line. That line of demarcation rules. O-So Robbed. Stained glass, you stood in line. The illumination touched depths. You shared in love. O-So Robbed. Brothers Wolf, What! Crazy. Fall and spin, you never win. O-So Robbed. Shoes went away, with diamonds shining, waving good-bye. O-So Robbed. Children not chunky, new to the world. In a cotton field. Yo ho-heave ho. O-So Robbed.

As a happy bear, when Goldilocks arrives, and is in need; make the bed, put on the tea. Relax and enjoy, the presence, of the Lord.

 

Bad Motor Scooter

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAGone are the days of freedom… You will be trac-ed down… The -I- is on you…

I’ve been on my bad motor scooter…

Have you?

BAD MOTOR SCOOTER ~ RIDE RIDE RIDE

Primar(il)y Nicaragua

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI never needed more than red, yellow and blue.

Rivas, Nicaragua

Equatorial Role Reversal

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Sitting by the bedside – my office – talking to the Amazon representative in the Philippines, trying to get my Kindle registered, I am once again reflecting, on the changes, occurring in these great times of life….upon my arrival in the tropics, I did not have hot water, there were no road signs, few cars; ox carts and ferries were the norm. Electricity was sporadic, and dirt floors were common.

Now, we have too many signs, gas stations, a plethora of grocery stores to choose from, ATM’s, and the hot water, that I need daily for my mental well being. Cold water showers are brutal, and just wrong!

Yesterday was Thanksgiving and all the Gringos were celebrating. My first holiday here, I was invited to have turkey, with other U.S. Citizens that I had met. The whole neighborhood was requested to attend.(four families) The good ladies worked in the kitchen, and shared their covered dishes. They felt the bond of celebrating, in a foreign country. I showed up late, with wet hair, because; for one, I had wanted to surf, two I have no interest in holiday convention, and three I suspected what happened next. I knew the quality of character, of our host. With her hand out, she gave us all a bill for thirty dollars, ! hahahaha … welcome to Costa Rica.

*That was in 1999 – I don’t know what that thirty dollars would be now. Maybe ninety dollars?

Many holidays have come and gone, but yesterday’s was special. We started out the day, with breakfast, at The Shack. They have good coffee and food. It’s a social thing. Then I went home and cooked rice and lentils, had a smoothie, watched TV. It was a relaxed day indoors, nestled in paradise.

But then, after the sun went down, our neighbor, an indigenous Nicaraguan Indian, knocked at my door, offering me turkey. It was packaged in a zip lock container. No doubt a gift from someone he worked for.

I thought to my self-now that’s something. An Indian offering me food on Thanksgiving.

It just couldn’t be any better.

A REAL THANKSGIVING ~

Two Ticanos

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYeah – Yeah – Yeah

It’s Thanksgiving – but I never wanted to drag my gringo ways here with me.

A Ticano is a North American who has been in Costa Rica a long time.

Pura Vida

*Ticano is a term coined by Que Magazine

Unsolicited Advice

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Walk Don’t Run Thru Costa Rica

IMG_1914mmWhat does a surfer or adventurer really need in Costa Rica?IMG_1851~ I was always more interested in the nature ~IMG_1854 ~ a simple cheap place to lay my head ~IMG_1919~ a nice place to drink my cafe con leche ~IMG_1867~ and a safe place to meditate ~

I once overheard a local, Fernandina Beach surfer, Eric Hatton say, “If you have a roof and a hose, you have living space in Costa Rica.” His words changed my life!

* Having spent a lot of time in Costa Rica, I know how important it is to have water running through the hose.

* It’s best to experience Costa Rica as cheap and as slow as you can.

*The sunsets are FREE!

PURA VIDA

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